Clos Pegase

Clos Pegase is one of Napa Valley's most important architectural landmarks, a postmodern winery designed by Michael Graves that was the winning entry in a 1984 competition organized by the San Marcos Foundation to create a "temple of wine and art." Founded in 1983 by Jan Shrem, a Beirut-born, Parisian-educated publisher and art collector, the winery was conceived as a Gesamtkunstwerk, a total work of art where architecture, sculpture, painting, and wine converge. The building, with its earth-toned columns, dramatic entrance portal, and sculpture-filled grounds, is one of the most photographed structures in wine country.

The estate encompasses 450 acres of vineyard across multiple Napa appellations, with the winery and home vineyard located at the foot of the Palisades on the northern edge of Calistoga. The Calistoga location provides warm growing conditions ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, while additional vineyard sources in Carneros and other cooler sites supply fruit for the white wine and Pinot Noir programs. The scale of the vineyard holdings allows the winemaking team to produce a broad portfolio at prices that are unusually reasonable for an estate of this visual and architectural distinction.

Winemaker Richard Sowalsky produces wines that aim for elegance and balance rather than the power that the warm Calistoga terroir might suggest. The estate Cabernet is structured and restrained, with moderate alcohol and integrated tannins. The Merlot is plush and aromatic, and the Chardonnay delivers the richness of barrel fermentation without losing its core freshness. The Hommage wines, the estate's top tier, are named for artists and produced in limited quantities from the finest lots.

The tasting experience at Clos Pegase is inseparable from the art and architecture. Visitors enter through the dramatic portal into a space that is simultaneously winery and museum, with sculptures by Henry Moore, Richard Serra, and other major artists placed throughout the grounds and interior. Tastings include current releases and reserve wines, with the art providing a continuous visual counterpoint. The cave tour, through tunnels decorated with art installations, is among the most unique in the valley. At $45, the tasting is a remarkable value considering the quality of the wine, the significance of the architecture, and the caliber of the art.

Clos Pegase's contribution to Napa Valley extends beyond wine. Jan Shrem's vision of a temple where wine and art coexist demonstrated that a winery could be a cultural institution, an idea that has since been adopted by estates like The Hess Collection, Hall Wines, and others. The Graves building itself is a landmark of postmodern architecture, studied in design schools and visited by architecture enthusiasts who may never taste the wine. For visitors who appreciate the intersection of creativity and craft, Clos Pegase is one of the most rewarding stops in the valley.