Behrens Family Winery

Behrens Family Winery is Spring Mountain's most maverick producer, a tiny, uncompromising operation run by Les Behrens, a self-taught winemaker who approaches each vintage with the intensity of an artist and the stubbornness of a mountain goat. Founded in 1993, the winery produces bold, aggressive reds from 8 acres of steep hillside vineyard and from sourced fruit that Les selects for its character rather than its pedigree. The wines are not for timid palates; they are dark, tannic, and built on the principle that great wine should provoke a reaction rather than seek approval.

The 8-acre estate vineyard sits on the steep slopes of Spring Mountain, where volcanic soils, intense sunlight, and the physical difficulty of farming create conditions that stress vines into producing fruit of extraordinary intensity. Les Behrens supplements his estate production with small lots of fruit from other mountain sources, selecting parcels that match his preference for bold, concentrated wines. The farming is hands-on and physical, with the steep terrain requiring the kind of manual labor that machines cannot replicate.

Les Behrens makes the wines himself, without a consulting winemaker or a team of cellar assistants. His approach is intuitive rather than formulaic, guided by what the fruit offers in each vintage rather than by a predetermined house style. The Cabernet Sauvignon is dark and tannic, with the brooding intensity of mountain fruit pushed to its limits. The Merlot is surprisingly powerful, showing none of the softness that the variety is known for at lower elevations. The Petite Sirah is a force of nature, inky and massive. None of these wines are designed to be easy; all of them are designed to be memorable.

Tastings at Behrens are by appointment and take place on the mountain estate, where Les himself frequently pours and provides commentary that is as unfiltered as his wines. The experience is intensely personal and not for visitors who prefer scripted hospitality or polished tasting rooms. Les can be opinionated, provocative, and utterly engaging, and the combination of his personality and his wines creates an experience that visitors either love deeply or find overwhelming. At $65, the tasting includes the full portfolio and an encounter with one of Napa's most original characters.

Behrens represents the wild, independent spirit that has always existed on the margins of Napa Valley's wine culture. While the mainstream has moved toward polish, accessibility, and high scores, Les Behrens has maintained his commitment to wines that are bold, challenging, and unapologetically personal. For visitors who want their wine to push back, Behrens is the place to go.