La Jota Vineyard Co.

La Jota Vineyard Co. is one of Howell Mountain's most historic estates, a property whose winemaking roots stretch back to 1898 when Frederick Hess, a German immigrant, built a stone winery on the volcanic slopes above the fog line. The original winery survived Prohibition as a bootlegging operation (according to local legend) before falling into disrepair. The property was revived in 1974 by Bill and Joan Smith, who recognized the potential of Howell Mountain's extreme terroir for producing Cabernet Sauvignon of extraordinary depth. La Jota is now part of the Jackson Family Wines portfolio, sharing winemaking leadership with Cardinale.

The estate covers 28 acres of steep, volcanic hillside at elevations above 1,400 feet. The soils are composed of volcanic ash and fractured rock, extremely well-drained and mineral-rich. The above-fog-line position means more direct sunlight and less humidity than the valley floor, conditions that produce thick-skinned grapes of deep color and concentrated flavor. The Cabernet Sauvignon from these harsh conditions has a ferocity and a mineral intensity that valley-floor wines rarely achieve. Small plantings of Merlot and Cabernet Franc provide blending components for the estate's Bordeaux-style wines.

Winemaker Chris Carpenter, who also makes Cardinale and Lokoya, brings a mountain specialist's sensibility to the La Jota wines. The Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is powerful and structured, with dark fruit, firm tannins, and a distinctive graphite minerality that marks it as unmistakably mountain-grown. The Merlot, unusual from a mountain estate, shows the depth and structure that the variety achieves at elevation, a far cry from the soft, plummy Merlots produced on the valley floor. Both wines are built for aging and reward patience.

Tastings at La Jota are by appointment and conducted on the estate, with a tour that includes the restored 1898 stone winery and a walk through the hillside vineyards. The setting is wild and remote, with the forest pressing in on all sides of the cleared vineyard blocks. The intimacy of the tasting, the drama of the setting, and the power of the wines combine to create an experience that captures the essence of mountain winemaking. The $90 fee reflects the exclusivity and the quality of what is poured.

La Jota's longevity is testament to the enduring potential of Howell Mountain terroir. The same volcanic soils that attracted Frederick Hess in 1898 continue to produce wines of extraordinary character over a century later. In a valley where many wineries measure their history in years, La Jota measures its in generations, and the wines reflect that depth of connection between place and tradition.